How to Book
Call or head to our site and tell us what the door is doing - won't open, won't close, makes a bang, drags on one side. We ask a few questions to figure out if it's a spring, a cable, an opener board, or track that's knocked out of line, because that determines what we bring on the truck. Most Lakeville calls come in once the door has already stopped working rather than while it's just acting up, so if yours is making a new noise or moving unevenly, that's the better time to call, not after it's stuck in the closed position with the car inside. We book by the job, not by a flat time slot, since a spring swap and a full opener replacement aren't the same visit. If you're not sure what's wrong, that's fine - describe the noise or the behavior and we'll narrow it down before anyone drives out. Go to the homepage to see how we handle the rest of what we do; this page is just about the service call itself.
The Cost of This Job
We don't post flat prices here because the job depends on what's actually failed and what's on the door - a single torsion spring swap on a builder-grade door from the 1980s or 90s stock that makes up most of this area is a different job than replacing a cable, drum, or an opener board on a newer unit. What we can tell you is what drives the cost: whether the part is a standard size still stocked on the truck or something discontinued that has to be sourced, and whether it's one spring or a matched pair (if one has failed, the other is usually close behind on a door that age). The honest limitation here: if your door and track are both original to a house built in the 1960s or 70s, parts for that specific hardware can take longer to source than parts for a 1990s door, and sometimes replacing the opener or the whole door is the more sensible move than chasing parts for something that old. We'll tell you straight if that's where you're at instead of billing you for a patch job.
How It Shows Up
On a lot of these 80s and 90s doors, the first sign isn't a dramatic snap - it's the opener straining, chain or belt sounding tight, and the door lagging a beat before it starts moving, especially on the first cold morning after a hard overnight freeze. Some owners notice the door closing unevenly, one side dropping faster than the other, which usually means one spring in a pair has already gone while the other is still holding. On the older end of the stock - houses closer to that 1955 start of the range - we also see tracks that have slowly racked out of alignment over decades of seasonal temperature swings, so the door rattles or binds partway through its travel instead of running smooth. If your opener clicks and the light comes on but the door doesn't move, that's almost always a spring, not the opener itself, no matter how new the motor is. None of that needs to turn into a breakdown if it gets looked at when it starts, rather than after it quits.
